Summer twilight, the day’s bright hot colors fade into shades of gray as a cooling breeze blows in from the sea. There’s fish fresh from the grill, the skin crisp and nearly blackened, the flesh moist ...

Remember macadamia-crusted yellowtail snapper in mango sauce? And papaya salsa, yuca mash, and a single plantain chip rising Iwo Jima-style from the plate? Ah, the bad old days. Not that New Florida ...